Coming Home

Today was all about travelling home. We left the hotel at 7am Monday in Munich time, which was 11pm Sunday night at home. We took the metro to the airport and were wheels up ontime. I watched back-to-back movies during the 10-hour flight, which kept me pretty content.

Once we landed in Atlanta we encountered storms. As a result, our flight was delayed 40 minutes, then an hour, then a couple, then several, etc. On the bright side, we ran into a friend Kathy who also happened to be flying from Atlanta to Milwaukee. Our 4pm flight boarded closer to 10pm and actually left closer to 11:30. We arrived in Milwaukee after 1:30 AM Tuesday. We took a shuttle to get Kathy's car and Kathy then drove Dawn and I to our sister's home to get our car.

I received a voicemail saying that my car battery was dead, but Jeff and Christine jump started it so it should be good. After a few detours and fog we arrived at my sister' place. The car reluctantly started, so we were now on our way. We stopped for gas and caffeine and got back on the highway. The fog was thick in spots, but overall wasn't too bad. My internal clock also thought it was later in the morning, so it was surprisingly not too bad staying awake. After dropping off Dawn I arrived at home just before 4am. Only 29 hours of travel door to door :-)

Deutschland (again) - Tag 2

This morning we had a late breakfast and then when "Schwemmel suchen" (mushroom searching). There is a wooded forest near the Kopfelsbergers home where they routinely gather mushrooms. The previous day we had pasta with a homemade mushroom sauce made using the local mushrooms. I recently read The Omnivore's Dilemma which described this and I had wanted to do it every since, so I was excited; even if it was routine for the Kopfelsbergers. So, Papa Franz, Franz Jr., and Geli took us out on our first search.

Once they found the first specimen, they pionted out what we should look for. There are many varities of mushrooms, but we were only picking one kind that was known to be good. We had a book to identify any variations, but safe is always better when it comes to mushrooms. So, with the target identified, we began the hunt on our own.

As Franz found another one, he showed how the mushroom's underside turns blue after touching. Pretty cool. He also showed how slugs may have eating away some of the underside and any remaining slugs should be removed. When cutting off a mushroom, some of the base is left behind to promote new growth. In some cases, if a mushroom is fairly spoiled, it might be thrown against a tree to blast the spores all around to also promote new growth.

After a bit I had found my first mushrooms and was happy with how clean / perfect they looked. I also found a few that the slugs got to first, but they would still be good once cleaned. I enjoyed the search, looking closely at mossy or decomposing tree stumps. Looking in thorny brush is good too since animals will have left the mushrooms alone, but of course the thorns are also undesirable to human mushroom seekers. Once we were all in the zone, we managed to take a pretty decent harvest in our basket.

After the harvest we decided to go for a walk. We also said goodbye to Carola, Julia, and Dolphi since they would be heading out soon. Today would be our last day in Halsbach. We walked up the street to the top of the hill. Some days this would provide a view of the Alps, but not today. We walked down the grassy field to the street and then went up to the church. The church is ornate and rather large for such a small town.

Once we got back from our hike, we loaded up and headed towards Burghausen to view the longest castle in the world. However, along the way we stopped in to see Ingrid's father who was throwing a birthday celebration at a park shelter. Other family members were also there. We chat for a bit and joined in having a beer. Then we said our goodbyes and headed to the castle.

We walked along the Burghausen castle which is now mostly living quarters. The very end has the grandest part of the castle, which also contains a museum. The castle also provides views of a river on either side. The river along the Burghausen old city center separates Germany and Austria. We took a path down to the city center. We stopped at an ice cream cafe before walking into Austria (which was probably the shortest walk of the day :-). Eventually we drove to the top of the hill on the Austrian side to view the castle from a distance.

It was then time to head to the train station. Dawn and I said our goodbyes and boarded the train. I was sad to leave, but this time I felt more reassured that I would indeed see the Kopfelsbergers again. We took the train from Burghausen to Muhldorf and then Munich. In Munich we took the S-bahn to the stop by our hotel - the Ambiance Rivoli, which is a really nice hotel. We had our last dinner in Germany with a beer and went to bed. The next day would be the longest day of the year...with an extra 7 hours due to time zone changes.

Deutschland (again) – Tag 1

Today we ate breakfast at the Kopfelsbergers and then we drove to Muhldorf train station.  From Muhldorf we took the train to Munich for Oktoberfest (Wies’n) and some of the usual sites.

Upon arrival, we took the S-bahn to Marienplatz to hear the glockenspiel (bell clock) since it was almost noon (on the hour). After the chimes and dances of the glockenspiel, we headed to Hofbrau Haus. It was busy, so we decided to head across the street. However, on our way out we found a table so we decided to stay. We all had a mass (liter) of beer and ordered lunch. It was fun and tasty

After the Hofbrau Haus we walked to Oktoberfest; making the occasional stop for shopping / browsing. Arriving at Oktoberfest, it was not as crazy as I had expected given the warnings I received. It appeared to me to be a larger scale version of Summerfest (in Milwaukee). We walked through one of the beer tents, but we eventually sat at a smaller beer garden to actually be able to order a drink (since most tents were full). We had a beer and various things dipped in chocolate; including a hot pepper which had some kick. We walked most of the grounds and watched the various carnival activities and were then ready to explore the rest of Munich.

We couldn't decide where to go, but eventually headed to the Olympic Park. We went up the needle and checked out the views of Munich from 181 meters above. We could see Oktoberfest lights in the distance. We eventually left the Olympic Park to head mid-way back to Marienplatz to a place where we could walk and find a restaurant for dinner. In the end, we ate at Hofbrau Haus - but not THE Hofbrau Haus where we had lunch. Once stuffed, it was time to take the train back to Muhldorf, drive back to Halsbach, and cross the street to go to bed. It was a good day. I was glad to have Papa Franz, Mama Ingrid, and Franz Jr. as guides to Oktoberfest.

Italia –> Deutschland

Today was our last day in Italy.  I had a cappuccino and croissant for breakfast.  We packed our things and left our suitcase at the front desk.  We then headed out for our last moments.  We shopped just north of the Vatican to stay somewhat close.  There were street vendors, shops, and shops with sidewalk sales.  Many items we have seen before, but we continue to explore since we had the time.

It started getting hot, so we sat in a shaded area just outside the wall and I read my book for a bit. After a while we decided to find a place to have our last lunch. We found a spot, but it definitely wasn't our best meal. Regardless, we had a reasonable meal with red wine to smooth it over. We then headed back to the hotel to get our luggage and head to the airport.

It was not obvious what train to take, but I directed Dawn and I to the track that I thought was correct. Once we were on the train, the first stop was not what I had expected based on my map, so I had us get off. The map was now in the suitcase, so I could not consult it immediately. Once off the train with map in hand, I could not find the "Quatro Venti" station we were at. We went down to the track down one level and asked someone...the said we had to go back to the track we were at. So, I carred the now heavy suitcase up several stories of stairs and we then needed to wait 30 min for the next train. Apparently we were on the correct train; however, this station was not on my map. I drew it in for my own satisfaction afterwards.

Regardless, we made it to the airport on time; even a bit early since the flight was delayed. Once we arrived in Munich, the Franz (papa and jr.) were waiting to take us back to Halsbach. We all sat down for a few beers which somehow eventually turned into a few schnapps. The apple schnapps were good. We then called it a night. It was good to be back in Halsbach.

Roma – Day 4

We had already seen most of the sites, so we decided today would be a relaxing day.  We had breakfast at the hotel and then headed to the metro.  We took the train to Barberini to see the macabre of skulls at Santa Maria della Concezione; however, they were closed and would not be open again until 3-6.  So, we headed north to see the oldest remaining portion of the original walls of Rome.  Behind the wall was a park that we explored a bit and eventually settled down to read.

It was enjoyable reading in the park. Eventually thunder started to rumble and we decided to walk a bit. We stopped for a capuccino in the park and the rain then began. By the time we finished, the rain had stopped again - great timing. I loved the rumbling thunder, and even better that I didn't get wet. We then returned to Santa Maria.

The cemetery at Santa Maria is a series of 4-5 rooms that are fully decorated with bones of capuchin monks. Arches of many skulls and hip bones, pieces of vertebrae in decorative patterns on the ceiling with forearms radiating out. A chandelier of bones. Some skeletons are standing or lying down in their brown robes. It is an amazing yet eerie sight to see. A couple of the skeletons still appear to have flesh on the face. About 4,000 Capuchins were utilized for this.

After the church we walked back past our favorite Trevi fountain. We decided to do some souvenier shopping. We then continue to the Pantheon and relaxed again and read a bit. Eventually we continued on to piazza Navona and again admired some of the art work.

At this point we attempted to meet up with the Lauers and returned to Barberini; however, we didn't hear back and eventually walked to piazza Spagna and then West. We then got a text and started to head back to Barberini, then got a text saying they would do their own thing. So, we went in search of food. We couldn't find a deal similar to Trastevere, so we eventually settled for a place near piazza Navona. It was a good last dinner topped off with an espresso.

After dinner we decided to take the bus back home. We had a metro/bus pass, but we had not yet been successful at riding a bus at will. So, we decided we should end by taking the intended bus back near our hotel. We did end up taking our 64 bus back to the hotel area. Nobody seems to swipe their card, so the bus system could probably be used for free by anyone...the metro is the main reason to have the card.

Once back at the hotel I took a few more night shots from the rooftop patio. The espresso counteracted the wine enough for me to write this, and now it is time for bed. I look forward to one last breakfast and lunch tomorrow before we return to Munich.

Roma – Day 3

Today we started out late, so we missed our free breakfast.  We decided to head out towards the Vatican and grab breakfast.  I had crepes with Nutella and strawberries and A.C.E. drink.  We then walked the shopping streets North of the Vatican and eventually towards Popolo to Via Margutta, which wasn’t as filled with art as I had expected.

We eventually walked to Piazza Navona, which is a large square filled with artists and a beautiful fountain. There are restaurants and old buildings enclosing the long square. There are also many street performers, although most were not unique. The art was nice, although price in comperison to Paris or Venice.

We continued on to the nearby Pantheon.  The Pantheon was impressive with its large dome and ancient pillars...it was neat to see in person.

After the Pantheon we returned to Trastevere to check out some of the sites we missed the night before. We went to S. Maria basillica, which was quite impressive on the inside. We also ventured up the hill to check out a couple fountains. The views at the top of the hill are nice, and the Fonte Acqua Paola is an impressive fountain.

We went back down the hill to get a bite to eat. In the end we decided to keep walking and walked back to the Vatican, back into the city center, and eventually back across the island into Trastevere. I wanted to give Dawn the experience of finding a place to eat, which she was not fond of an kept walking out of the area. Anyway, we went back to Trastevere and had a nice dinner with wine.

We decided to return to the hotel via bus along the parkway. Unfortunately, we didn't find the exact bus stop and kept walking. We then walked and walked some more. Eventually we must have walked the wrong way because we were in the middle of a parkway far from our hotel. So, we walked and walked some more until we were back in residential area and could find our hotel. It is good that we had a detailed map; it was bad that the streets are often not labeled as nicely. Either way, we were able to see a lot of SW Roma :-)

Roma – Day 2

Today started with breakfast at the hotel, which included the typical bread, meat, cheese, and coffee.  Once we were fueled up, we headed to the Vatican to buy a ticket for the open tour bus.  The bus goes near or past most of the sites and you can get on and off for 24 hours.

The bus was a nice way to see areas we probably wouldn't have walked to, but it doesn't provide views of many of the best areas - so it is still important to get off the bus and check out the sites on foot. We eventually got off near the Vittorio and walked to the colosseum via the Roman forums. We decided to take a guided tour of the Colosseum and the Palatino hill.

The Colosseum has a bloody history; mostly a way to execute prisoners and animals via battles and some days 100's of animals may be killed. The floor had sand to sook up the blood. The gladiators and animals would be staged in the levels below the main floor, which is no longer present other than a replica put in place for perspective. An earthquake caused the south end to collapse and much of the lead and marble used for support was harvested for other buildings. However, the building is still impressive in its current state.

Palatino hill was the home of emperors and the origin of Rome according to the story of Remo and Romulus (where the name of the emptire originated). There are many ruins today, but there are also still many pieces intact that give insight into the original structures. We walked the hill and the Roman forums. The hill also provided a nice view of the Colosseum.

After Palatino hill we decided to find food. We hopped on the open tour bus to then take a tram to the Trastevere area. We didn't see any restaurants at first, so we continued on and eventually took the tram back near the river. We walked into the back streets and quickly found a place to eat. We had water, wine, bruschetta, pasta dish, entre dish, salad, and dessert for 15 euro. The wine was great; similar to the day before and only $4 for a 1/2 liter (we decided to get more). I topped it all off with a capuccino and we were then ready to check out more sites.

We walked across the island in the center of the river and towards the sanctuary for cats (something like "piazza sacred"). It is a central square with ruins and many cats appear to call the ruins home. We hopped back on the open tour bus and rode until we reached Trevi fountain again.

We briefly checked out Trevi fountain again and then continued down the busy shopping streets to Piazza Barberini. We ordered a gelato and checked out the fountain, then walked on to Piazza Di Spagna. It started to rain a bit, but not too bad. At the piazza the Trinita Dei Monti was lit in the night at the top of marble stairs with a fountain lit at the bottom. This area was bustling with young people; seems to be the place to go at night. From here we hopped on the metro and headed back towards our hotel.

Rather than transfer to another metro, we decided to get off at the Vatican stop and walk back to our hotel. The rain was light, but lightning lit up the sky often. I stopped to take pictures at San Pietro square. I enjoy taking night shots, and I also wanted to see if I could capture the lightning. Eventually I got the hang of it and have some cool shots of the basillica with lightning backlighting. Glad we took the extra walk. I think that rain can also provide some of the best photo opps; even if only because it cuts back on the crowds.

Roma – Day 1

Today we took the train into Roma.  Dawn and I booked the Hotel Alessandrino, which is 5 min from the Vatican.  After checking into the hotel, we headed to the Vatican and checked out Piazzo San Pietro.  Eventually we went into the Basillica and viewed the pope’s tombs and the Basillica itself.  Very impressive in size and ornate.

After the Basillica we grabbed pizza (by the gram) on a side street - to go only. It was tasty, but it started to rain and another person rushing under cover knocked half my pieces on the ground. Oh well, I managed to have 3 of my 6 pieces, which I decided was enough anyway. We then tried to find the Sistine Chappel, but the signs were surprisingly sparse. We eventually made our way to the entrance and began our tour.

The Sistine Chappel consists of the Popes Museum which contains many works of art, sculptures, banners, and many decorative hallways (painted walls and ceilings) - some of which I found as impressive as the Sistine Chappel itself. Once in the actual Chappel, we were unable to take pictures and needed to remain silent - although the guards needed to constantly "shhh" people. The chappel was impressive and it was neat to see famous pieces of art; however, I think many other works along the route were very deserving as well.

After the Sistine Chappel we walked nearby streets and eventually stopped for a bite to eat. I essentially had a thick spaghetti, but the highlight for me was the house wine. It was so smooth and only $8 a liter...I would get a case at home if I could. The tiramisu was also the best I have had...just a hint of anice flavor as well.

We walked the shops a bit longer and then Dawn and I took the metro to some of the ruins. We started at the Colleseum and eventually walked our way past the Monumento a Vittoria Emanuele II. At this point it started raining hard, but it eventually stopped as we hit the market vendors along Via Nazionale. We then arrived at my favorite site - the Fontana di Trevi (Trevi Fountain). The fountain was lit up at night and is truly amazing to see.

After the Trevi Fountain, we continued down the street and popped in and out of shops. We eventually worked out way to Via del Corso and walked to Piazza del Popolo; stopping for a pesto bread and later for a gelato. Once at Piazza del Popolo, the center square and fountains looked beautiful when lit up at night. From here we took the metro back to our hotel to call it a night.

Deutschland –> Italia

I slept in for the first day since the trip began.  Although I woke up once before, I stayed in bed until 11.  We got cleaned up and checked out plans across the street at the Kopfelsbergers.  We also took Kwetschgendatschi (?) for the others to taste.  Carola offered to wash our clothes, which we ended up taking with us before drying (since most places do not have dryers).  Geli (short for Angelica) took our clothes and dried them more at her place in Altotting, where we headed prior to heading to the airport.</p>

Altotting is a religious pilgrimage place and also the location of the school that Katie and the Kopfelsbergers attended. We saw the Schwarz Madonna and the nearby church. Soon after it was time to go

We then drove directly to the airport. I was excited for the stretch of autobahn (highway) on the way to Munich, since I got a nice car partly for this purpose. I only went 115 at one point; otherwise I kept it around 100 mph. Soon the highway changed back to two lanes and the fun was over. Still a fun car though.

Once in Rome we had confusion about the hotel we booked. Apparently it was in the "outer limits". We used a car service to get there since the metro would not be ideal. It looked like the Rome ghetto, but in the end the hotel was decent and we walked to a restaurant (eventually finding the right path) that was also excellent. I had Carbonera, which I was looking forward to ever since I had it a couple weeks ago at Angelina's in Green Bay. We had some wine ($8/bottle) and I also had a creme brule dessert. Excellent. There was karaoke and a bachelorette party going on, so we had free entertainment...just the bachelorette party and us. We sat in a section of the restaurant that had erotic pictures on the wall...interesting for a restaurant. I see the license on the wall that says "Eroticism" and the actual restaurant name further down, so maybe that is the motif. Either way, great food and people. In the end, the outer limits was a great experience.

Deutschland – Tag 3 (Hochzeit)

Today was the wedding of Michael and Susana.  I again went to the bakery (this time with all the Americans) to pick up breakfast…the usual bread, meat, and cheese.  I then put got cleaned up and put on my lederhosen for the wedding.

First we headed to Kraiberg am Inn for photos. Photos were almost all just the couple, although a couple of us onlookers were in pictures as well. Micheal and Susi then left in an old MG convertable to head several blocks away to the city center where lies city hall.

The city hall ceremony is primarily for immediate family. It is a relatively short ceremony where the wedding certificate is signed with the wedding couple and two witnesses...and us other onlookers. It was neat to be able to watch this part of the ceremony that would typically be reserved for family.

At the end of the city hall ceremony, we drank champagne and chat for a bit. When leaving, Michael's band was in the atrium area and began playing as the couple looked over the balcony. It was a surprise for Susi. The band marched to the city center fountain and continued to play for the couple. More guests arrived and eventually we walked across the square to the church for the religious ceremony.

The church ceremony was very similar to catholic ceremonies in the US; however, in this case I didn't understand most of the words. I do know that the entire band also played in church and two singers also participated and it was the best music I heard in church. After the ceremony everyone walked out under a ribbon and could donate money...didn't have change at this point and I am not sure what this represented (this is where I nod and slap on my American tag).

After leaving church, papa Franz soon indicated that we must get in the car and head out. Michael and Susi left in the car almost immediately and we were to follow. So, we drove to a nearby town where the rest of the ceremony would take place and honked horns all along the way. Once we arrived, everyone was to stand on a set of bleachers to take a group photo; which is customary. (Later we found out that everyone has the option to buy the photo...I look forward to this arriving)

After the photo a gymnastics routine was performed. Yes, you are reading correctly. Susi teaches and participates in gymnastics groups, so her students and eventually her own group performed on the lawn and in the hall. It was neat to see some of the balance acrobatics. We sat at the "neighbors" table, which including Carola (who was hosting Dawn and me). We were able to order beer (Hell, Hefe-Weiss, or Weiss bock [dunkel]) and a buffet of meats and desserts. This is the appetizer before the meal in the evening.

The band also came to the reception, so they played songs for the couples, then added the parents, then the "people from america", then others. I also danced with Susi's Schwegemutter (mother-in-law). I have no skills at the waltz-ish dance; however, she was very nice and forced me to follow proper customs, which includes walking her back to her chair arm-in-arm and then bowing. I'm glad she asked me to dance.

during one of the later gymnastics routines, the various poses represented parts of Michael and Susi's life together. They neaded to guess the poses. When correct, they received various pieces of wood, which ended up making a new garden bench and table in the end. It was neat to watch and a neat way to present a gift.

A slide show was presented, which was portrayed as an interview. They displayed the questions, such as "How many children would you like to have?" and "How long was your first time together?". I was amuzed by the questions and even more so by the answers. I later discovered that the questions asked when it was recorded where different than the questions displayed - it all made a lot more sense :-)

We ordered our meal from a menu and received a colored chip. Once the meals came out, we exchanged our chip for the meal. The beer was tracked by marking our coaster, which we then paid for at the end of the meal. We introduced our American tradition of clinking glasses to make the couple kiss, which people seemed to enjoy participating in.

Gift giving is more personal. People get in line to personally give their gift to the couple. The couple opens the gifts in private, so the gifts are often wrapped in clear paper (and home made) so the item can be seen when given.

Once dinner was done, the party eventually moved upstairs where we could order wine and water. It was like a small beer hall with tables and benches. A rock band played, including many american pop songs, and everyone stood on the benches and clapped. Many bottles of wine were drank and many of the german songs were fun, including the song from last years Oktoberfest. This continued until the party ended close to midnight. Then we helped bring the presents back and went back to Halsbach (with a Denis being the designated driver) around 1:30am. All-in-all, Germans seem extremely strict about drinking and driving despite enjoying drinking.

Deutschland – Tag 2

Today I got cleaned up and headed across the street to the Kopfelsberger’s to pick up Katie and head to the bakery.  We walked down the street to the tiny bakery and bought the breakfast items: 15 semmel, 1 brot, 200g kase, 200g salami.  Of course, there are 10 different meats, 5 cheeses, 15 breads – I need to study more.  Breakfast was amazing as usual, consisting of the freshly bought items as well as hausgemacht (homemade) jams, Nutella, coffee, and more.

Today we went to see one of Kind Ludwig's castles on the Chimsee. We took a ferry to the Herrinsel (man island). The castle was modeled after Versailles in France, although it was never finished because he ran out of money. It is as oppulant as the Neuschwanstein, although the king only spent a total of 10 days in the castle - the rest of the time it was on display similar to a museum.

After the castle we had a snack at a biergarden on the island. When done, we took the ferry to the neighboring fraueninsel (woman island) and walked around. It has a convent and several buildings mostly for tourists and lots of flowers. The island is fairly small, so it is a short walk around. We then took the ferry back to the main land and headed to Tortensberg(?).

In Tortensberg(?) we shopped for a bit. I bought a Krug (stein) and mostly looked around. We then ate at the Hex'n Kuche (witch's kitchen), which had awesome food. I had the Bauernfilets "Scharf", which is the farmer's filet (spicy). It was pork medalions in a spicy cream sauce with vegetables and a homemade potato salad. Excellent. A sign hung up saying "Gift-Kammer", which translates to poison room - so I learned that I should not write "gift" on a German present :-)

After dinner we returned to the Kopfelsberger's. I eventually crossed the street to get my gifts to wrap. I ran into Dolfi (short for Adolfina), who is Caroline's mother. She invited me in for Zwatschgenditchi (?), which is a typical Bavarian dessert. Julia (the "J" is silent) joined us in the kitchen and we talked (as best I could) and ate. Julia speaks English well, but I was surprised with how much we could converse in German...and with writing various words on paper as mini-lessons for me: muhle, muhler, mule (with/without umlauts). Eventually an hour passed and the Kopfelsbergers called to see what happened...time flies when having fun.

I returned to the Kopfelsberger's to have some beer with Susi and all the night before her wedding. We had beer with the locking tops and we had to knock it open in a "manly" way, which in the end was just a trick - must be explained in person. Either way, it was a wonderful evening and all are excited for the wedding in the morning. I also learned that red and white colors would not be appropriate, so I am glad I plan to wear a blue shirt with my liederhosen. I am still a bit nervious, I don't want to look ackward - and I will also be setting an expectation about my ability to speak German. Either way, it should force me into some good conversations! I have very excited for the Hochzeit (wedding). Bis morgan.

Deutschland – Tag 1

The day began 4 hours after the previous day ended, which started the travel to Germany.  We took the metro to the special Orly airport metro and checked in for our flight to Munich via Berlin.  It was my first time to Berlin, although I can’t claim to have seen more than the airport…at least not closer than several thousand feet.

Once we arrived in Munich, the entire Kopfelsberger family (Papa Franz, Mama Ingrid, Franz, Susi, Michael) was there to great us. They drove two vehicles so that they could still have room for us. I had already reserved a rental car because I didn't want to inconvenience anyone. The rental place upgraded the Mercedes B class to an E class, which is a very nice ride...except now everyone who sees it things that we are wealthy :-)

The Kopfelsbergers planned a BBQ at Michael and Susi's future house in Kraiburg am Inn (by the Inn river). It was Michael's parents and is now Michael and Susi's, but they are remodeling and won't move in until December. It was great seeing the family again and having great food and Spaten Oktoberfest beer (the "real stuff" according to Michael).

After eating, Michael, his dad, and a friend played their brass horns as they will at the wedding. They played a few songs, including a polka, then walked a few houses down to play for a neighbor on her birthday. We walked into the backyard and they greeted us with friends/family and then we had some beer and talked for a bit. It is so neat to experience the wonderful people and comradery and hospitality. If does make me wonder if Bavaria is the best place to live in or if I just happen to know the right people.

Afterwards we headed back to Halsbach where we toured the house, met the neighbors where Dawn and I are staying, and then had drinks and chatted. We are staying with Caroline and her daughter Julian and mother (?) and dog Paula. They are also extremely nice and hospitable. I am again amazed at what an opportunity it is to stay here.

Paris – Day 3

I most looked forward to today.  Today was the day I would bike all of Paris...despite only several hours sleep.

I asked about renting a bike, and the hotel owner mentioned the Velolib. I didn't think my credit card would work based on what I read online, but I tried anyway. Denied. I guess you need a credit card with a smart chip...as I originally thought.

No problem, I looked up normal bike rental places. I arrived at the rental place and the man said he didn't have any rentals available. I went to another location; they appeared permanently closed. I went to the tourist office (according to my map) at the Arc de Triomphe, but it isn't there. I used the address on my map (the other end of the Champs Elysees), but it is no longer there. Mental note, reusing maps from prior trip is not always cool. So, no bike and no information. I walk off frustration / disappointment (which takes a couple miles), consider stealing a bike or buying a bike and then returning. Checked for information at Gare Lazare, since I ended up here anyway. Attempted to buy Velolib card again. Said a prayer...almost. No dice.

I ended up walking to Printemps department store, which is where I planned to buy the second half of my wedding gift. I think possitive...this is the first accomplishment of the day, and it was only 1 pm :-)

I then took a train to Gare de L'Est (East train station), since I wanted to check out the 10e. I walked the Canal Saint Martin up to Villette and then back down to the Seine, which was an all day affair. I crossed many neighborhoods, walked side streets, bought more wine, checked out boats transfering between locks, and eventually ended up by Bastille. I went into a market and bought the typical french bread, brie, wine (more), and an opener. I didn't know when, but this was for consumption - a gift to myself. I felt very Parisien walking with my long stick of bread in hand.

side note: despite feeling momentarily Parisien and being off the tourist path, I blended the least today since I wore shorts. EVERYONE wears pants (except women in skirts); despite the temperature. I decided to break my usual attempt to blend since I planned to bike all day. Oh well. In my defense, ff the many hundreds of men I saw, I believe there were at least 4 other people in shorts - probably tourists :-)

Anyway, I continued walking across the Seine, through the Jardin des Plantes. Stopped to have my bread and cheese; wasn't sure if the wine was legal and I didn't have a secluded spot. Checked out options for metro, and decided I might as well finish my trek on foot. I went through neat areas including Place de la Contrescarpe and Pot de Fer - looks like a good place to eat; reminiscent of Brussels. Back past the Pantheon to the Jardin du Luxembourg for another bit of bread and cheese. By the way, the Brie was creamy and the best I have had...maybe it wasn't really brie??

Dawn went with the Lauers to the Louvre, so I went back to the room to see if they were back. I was very tired and felt myself about to fall asleep; possibly since I opened the wine :-) Decided to pack up the wine and leftover bread and cheese and a glass and head out. The night before I saw people picnicking on the banks of the Seine, so I thought I might end up there. First I neaded to have a great meal - Paris wouldn't be complete without it!

I headed to Le Petit St Benoit, which was recommended on my map as being authentic French...part of the "perfect day" tour. Being older, I hoped that it would also be a good value with focus moved on to some other hot spot. It also happened to be relatively close by. The restaurant was a block from Les Deux Magots, which had other trendy places. I checked out the menu and asked to be seated. I went with a three course meal...scallop pate, confit de canard, and a chocolate cake in vanilla sauce. All were unique and amazing. The scallop pate looked like a slice of leberkase(?), but was a scallop base with other flavors infused. The duck was amazing flavor and included a salad and frites (fries) and I had red wine to accompany it. I savored each bite...amazing. Also, the service was like I have only seen in France - impeccable, unobtrusive, like a coordinated dance of the various servers - anything noticed will be addressed; regardless of who initially took your order. This alone is a necessary experience, the amazing food is a bonus. A man with a guitar stands by the sidewalk tables and sings spanish-style songs. (One I recognize as "perhaps, perhaps" - the theme song from Coupling.) My cake seemed flourless yet very light and worked perfect with the sauce. Again, each bite needed to be savored. Once complete, I ended the meal with a cafe creme - how does it taste so good? I actually smiled due to pure contentment...The frustration from earlier in the day was gone.

Although I wanted to join the Seine banks for a drink, it was 10:30 and I thought I should head back. Dawn was back (and napping), so I woke her up to help me finish my wine, bread, and cheese. It's a difficult job, but someone must do it. Another late night, and I must get up in 4.5 hours for my flight.

It was a good day. And I will return for my bike ride...with a smart credit card; once the US catches up with things.

Paris – Day 2

The second day was another chance to walk some of the neighborhoods.  I started with a cafè crème and crepes and then headed to Montmartre for the Sacre Coeur and check out the artists.  I originally hoped to replace my Van Gogh, but I didn’t find a painting that would become my new centerpiece.

I really enjoyed the art work, the view from the hill, and the Dali museum. We then worked our way down towards Moulin Rouge (a.k.a. sex district). Nothing much to see here (until night:-); other than taking in the general surroundings. So next we headed to l'etoile (the star); also known as the Arc de Triomphe.

The Arc is accessed via a winding staircase that goes and goes. The view is worth it though! I love watching traffic from the top, since the many-lane roundabout seems so chaotic yet precise.

Dawn and I then walked back to the hotel, which included the Champs Elysees, Grand Palais, Place de Invalides, and then Musee Rodin. The gardens are nice and just a Euro...I did the museum previously. We then walked the rest of the way back to the Jardin du Luxembourg; other than picking up a bottle of wine along the way.

We then got cleaned up for our dinner cruise. I picked up a pizza to go since I was hungry and still had a couple hours. We then took the train to the Tour Eiffel, but no time to go up. Took a few pictures and then headed to the cruise at the pier near the tower.

The dinner cruise was nice...it was good food and a unique experience. For me personally, I would rather pay for a wonderful meal/service elsewhere and walk the Seine for the view. Pictures from inside a moving glass boat don't work well. However, we happened to have a group of guys near our table from Montreal (Frech Canada) that were friendly and that set the tone for the evening. We went out for a drink at Trocadero and talked more with our new friends...Thankfully their English was better than my French.

We then had another drink overlooking the Tour Eiffel, but it was dark at this point since it was after midnight. I picked up on some French, including the use of religious terms for expressions in Montreal (e.g. I'll "tabernac" you). We discussed options for after-hours, but we didn't have consensus.

Unfortunately, the metro closed at this point (3am?), so we headed towards the Tour Montparnasse as a beacon pointing the way back to the hotel. It was a long walk, but nice. We eventually stopped for pizza once we saw an open place (Pizza Pino). I ate an entire pizza with egg, ham, and cheese; except for a slice that I shared with Dawn :-) Just past 4am, it was then time for bed.

Paris – Day 1

Before I discuss Paris, I should note that we left Brussels to take the train.  I had one last waffle at the train station (I will miss them!), and we proceeded to take the train to Brussels-Midi and then take the Thalys to Paris-Nord.  There was some confusion on which train to take, but we figured it out.  I love the high-speed trains.

Once we arrived in Paris we took the Metro to Luxembourg and arrived at the Residence du Palais. The accomodations are small but nice, and the owners are friendly and the location is great. We then headed out for a coffee and a Croque Select at Le Select; a typical sidewalk cafe with great coffee and people watching.

We then headed out for a walking tour. We checked out the beautiful Jardin du Luxembourg, the St Sulpice church with a huge monumental fountain. We continued on to Notre Dame and the Hotel De Ville. We walked the shopping streets near the Pompidou to the Forum des Halles. Then we walked to the Jardin du Palais Royal and the Louvre.

At this point we met up with the Lauers. We walked South back towards the hotel in search of a place to eat. We ended up eating at Les Deux Magots - Paris' oldest cafe. We then walked a few of the same sights as a group, including St Sulpice, Jardin du Luxembourg, and then went to the Pantheon. We stopped for some wine on the corner of the park and then returned to our hotel.

It’s all about the food

After a nap, we headed out on a walking tour.  There were lots of cool architecture, churches, public squares, outdoor seating, etc.  However, I must admit that a highlight for me was when we ran into the waffle wagon.  I love the waffles and I waited years to have one again.  It was worth the wait.

Once the waffles and walking tour wound down, we decided to check out the Beer Fest in Grand Place.  The beer was tasty and there were lots of breweries represented.  We then hit some local bars to keep sampling the local pride.  The last beer got us going pretty good, so it was time to have the famous mussels in Brussels.  On the way back we stopped for some Belgium chocolates and called it a night.

Arrival

The price of traveling in Europe is first spending a day traveling to get there.  My sister Dawn and I left 8am Saturday, 9/5, to drive to Milwaukee, hop on a plane to Atlanta, and then hop on another plane to Brussels – arriving 8:35am local time.

By and large, everything went smooth.  We drove to our sister Christine’s family’s home who dropped us off at the airport…after a last meal at Kopp’s consisting of a Chicken Caliente, 1/3 of Dawn’s cheeseburger, and a bunch of frozen custard.  As is my usual routine, I stayed up during the entire flight; watching 17 Again and Stark Trek movies.  The first twist came after we arrived…a huge human traffic jam at Border Control.  Our next hour or two was all about waiting – worst entry experience ever.  I will not be flying into Brussels again anytime soon.

Once the airport experience was behind us, we hopped on the train to arrive at central station.  We walked a few short blocks to our hotel, which consisted of rolling our suitcase over the brick sidewalks and roads – envision loud clacking on a peaceful Sunday morning.  We dropped off our luggage and hit the town…for a bit.  We eventually came back to the hotel to use the restroom and were told that a room was ready if we wanted one.  Oh yeah, nap time!  After a few hours, as I write this, I am feeling 10x better; although still slightly feeling like the night after an all-nighter – appropriately so :-)

Apparently it is Beer Fest here, so we may not have to go too far to sample all of Belgium’s finest.  It changes the look of Grand Place a bit, but the tents setup in the otherwise open square will offer their own rewards.  The Moules (Mussels) are also waiting.  Time to go explore!