Paris – Day 3

I most looked forward to today.  Today was the day I would bike all of Paris...despite only several hours sleep.

I asked about renting a bike, and the hotel owner mentioned the Velolib. I didn't think my credit card would work based on what I read online, but I tried anyway. Denied. I guess you need a credit card with a smart chip...as I originally thought.

No problem, I looked up normal bike rental places. I arrived at the rental place and the man said he didn't have any rentals available. I went to another location; they appeared permanently closed. I went to the tourist office (according to my map) at the Arc de Triomphe, but it isn't there. I used the address on my map (the other end of the Champs Elysees), but it is no longer there. Mental note, reusing maps from prior trip is not always cool. So, no bike and no information. I walk off frustration / disappointment (which takes a couple miles), consider stealing a bike or buying a bike and then returning. Checked for information at Gare Lazare, since I ended up here anyway. Attempted to buy Velolib card again. Said a prayer...almost. No dice.

I ended up walking to Printemps department store, which is where I planned to buy the second half of my wedding gift. I think possitive...this is the first accomplishment of the day, and it was only 1 pm :-)

I then took a train to Gare de L'Est (East train station), since I wanted to check out the 10e. I walked the Canal Saint Martin up to Villette and then back down to the Seine, which was an all day affair. I crossed many neighborhoods, walked side streets, bought more wine, checked out boats transfering between locks, and eventually ended up by Bastille. I went into a market and bought the typical french bread, brie, wine (more), and an opener. I didn't know when, but this was for consumption - a gift to myself. I felt very Parisien walking with my long stick of bread in hand.

side note: despite feeling momentarily Parisien and being off the tourist path, I blended the least today since I wore shorts. EVERYONE wears pants (except women in skirts); despite the temperature. I decided to break my usual attempt to blend since I planned to bike all day. Oh well. In my defense, ff the many hundreds of men I saw, I believe there were at least 4 other people in shorts - probably tourists :-)

Anyway, I continued walking across the Seine, through the Jardin des Plantes. Stopped to have my bread and cheese; wasn't sure if the wine was legal and I didn't have a secluded spot. Checked out options for metro, and decided I might as well finish my trek on foot. I went through neat areas including Place de la Contrescarpe and Pot de Fer - looks like a good place to eat; reminiscent of Brussels. Back past the Pantheon to the Jardin du Luxembourg for another bit of bread and cheese. By the way, the Brie was creamy and the best I have had...maybe it wasn't really brie??

Dawn went with the Lauers to the Louvre, so I went back to the room to see if they were back. I was very tired and felt myself about to fall asleep; possibly since I opened the wine :-) Decided to pack up the wine and leftover bread and cheese and a glass and head out. The night before I saw people picnicking on the banks of the Seine, so I thought I might end up there. First I neaded to have a great meal - Paris wouldn't be complete without it!

I headed to Le Petit St Benoit, which was recommended on my map as being authentic French...part of the "perfect day" tour. Being older, I hoped that it would also be a good value with focus moved on to some other hot spot. It also happened to be relatively close by. The restaurant was a block from Les Deux Magots, which had other trendy places. I checked out the menu and asked to be seated. I went with a three course meal...scallop pate, confit de canard, and a chocolate cake in vanilla sauce. All were unique and amazing. The scallop pate looked like a slice of leberkase(?), but was a scallop base with other flavors infused. The duck was amazing flavor and included a salad and frites (fries) and I had red wine to accompany it. I savored each bite...amazing. Also, the service was like I have only seen in France - impeccable, unobtrusive, like a coordinated dance of the various servers - anything noticed will be addressed; regardless of who initially took your order. This alone is a necessary experience, the amazing food is a bonus. A man with a guitar stands by the sidewalk tables and sings spanish-style songs. (One I recognize as "perhaps, perhaps" - the theme song from Coupling.) My cake seemed flourless yet very light and worked perfect with the sauce. Again, each bite needed to be savored. Once complete, I ended the meal with a cafe creme - how does it taste so good? I actually smiled due to pure contentment...The frustration from earlier in the day was gone.

Although I wanted to join the Seine banks for a drink, it was 10:30 and I thought I should head back. Dawn was back (and napping), so I woke her up to help me finish my wine, bread, and cheese. It's a difficult job, but someone must do it. Another late night, and I must get up in 4.5 hours for my flight.

It was a good day. And I will return for my bike ride...with a smart credit card; once the US catches up with things.